Pearse Islands to Pearl Pass

We awoke very early to dense fog as predicted. We really don’t care, because Karen and I are both still doing “real work” and given that we still have a cell signal here in the anchorage, we are both on the phone sending and receiving text message and emails.

In between juggling work projects, I made us breakfast: a French Omelet with tomato, sautéed onions and red peppers with a great English cheddar topped with a balsamic glaze drizzle. Karen was happy.

Lots of protein to start the day

Just as we were about to weigh anchor, a nice Tollycraft joined us in the anchorage. I bet they were happy to see us leave. Now they had the place all to themselves.

Clean anchor...almost

Clean anchor...almost

When we did get underway, most of the fog had lifted with the occasional blanket still hugging to the coastline here and there. The fishermen are out in force doing their racetrack back and forth along the “hot spots”. Our goal today was to “catch” a whale or two: humpback, Orca or whatever came our way. Blackfish Sound is usually good for spotting these mammals. I guess that why it is named Blackfish, the native American name for Orca.

We did spot four humpback doing their thing,  but no Orca. On the commercial whale watching boat channel we heard that most of the activity was in Johnstone Strait around West Cracroft island. Not on our route, so we settled for what we saw. A Dalls porpoise and a few harbor porpoise did round out our mammal spotting for today.

Because it’s the height of summer cruising, Karen is determined to find us anchorages with little or no other boats. That is how Pearl Pass became our destination. Showcased in the Dreamspeaker Guide, it’s ust a little break in the land, choked with kelp on one end, so we should not see much traffic through this “pass”! We set the hook in a spot with great views all around and settled in for the afternoon.

A local fisherman came in to inspect and pull his crab buoy. As it turned out, there were three crab pots on the string, marked by only one buoy. Good lesson learned: give the crab pot buoys an even wider berth when anchoring because you never know where and how many pots are sitting on the bottom ,waiting to tangle with your ground tackle.

Busy checking crab pots

After that excitement, Karen and I both went back to work for the afternoon. We still have three bars of cell coverage and we knew it wouldn’t last later in the trip, so we crammed to get a bunch of loose ends under control for when we lose all connectivity.

The evening was calm, quiet and peaceful. I think we saw one lonely boat go by, but no one joined us in this anchorage.

Fog lifting



Sheep Bay to Cordova

We woke up early at 6am. It was sunny! There were lots of otters with babies floating around, and they were playing. So cute!

Bob wanted to leave early for Cordova, so we were off by 9:38. We were happy to follow our cookies from yesterday for a no-stress exit.

It was an uneventful trip with lots of sun. We had called the fuel dock to see if they’d be open on the 4th, and they were. Expecting traffic, we were surprised to see that, once again, there was no one around. We tied up there about 11:53 and filled up, taking 525 gallons of diesel.

We had thought the Mother Goose fleet might already be in Cordova, but that was incorrect. We came into the harbor, tried with no luck to reach the harbormaster, and tied up in a great spot back on G dock.

We had lunch and walked up to the grocery store at the head of the dock to buy hamburger buns for dinner, as well as a turkey baster Bob needed for a boat project. We picked up the spare BBQ knobs that that had been sent up from Boat Electric in Seattle from the Harbormaster’s office, and then walked out on the Cordova harbor breakwater. It was really pretty.

Looking back to Cordova from the corner of the breakwater

I think all the seagulls in Cordova hang out on the breakwater

We started cleaning up the boat, both inside and out, to prepare for our 7-6 departure for Anchorage. At 5pm, we took a break for beers aboard OceanFlyer, celebrating the end of a fabulous, once-in-a-lifetime trip in Prince William Sound.


Comfort Cove to Sheep Bay

Woke to sun, and it stayed lovely all day. We hauled the anchor, which was really clean, with just a trace of mud. Less work for me!

It was a beautiful ride to Sheep Bay. There was no one around, we didn’t see another boat along the way. On the way into Sheep Bay, the “rock awash” was covered in seals. There were lots of otters as well. We cautious headed for Telita’s anchor spot (shared from an earlier visit), but the tides were a lot lower today than when she was there. The wind blew us into the shallows as we tried to turn around, and we saw 1.3’ on the sounder. We believe it was from the eel grass on the bottom, that’s the  story we’re telling ourselves.

We took the dinghy out near high tide so we could explore as far as possible. First, we went up to the old Andersen Lodge, and then over to Shalin waterfall, which is really pretty.

Shalin waterfall. Hard to believe we missed this on the way in.

Then we went down as far towards the lagoon as we could go. It was beautiful, and we saw 3 Grizzlies! We couldn’t get too close as the water was too shallow, but they definitely knew we were there. One grizzly stood up on his hind legs, sniffed, and ran. Bears 2 and 3 almost crossed the “river” in front of us, but got spooked and ran off as well. It was a great critter day!

The "Big Guy" leads the way across the stream bed

A couple of younder grizzlies waiting to cross the stream

Back at the boat, Bob’s eagle eyes spotted mountain goats high up on the mountains. Watched them through the binoculars just to see them move. It’s the first time we’ve seen them so clearly.

OceanFlyer in Sheep Bay

We had a lovely evening. It’s a holiday weekend, and we’re only three bears and mountain goat territory in Sheep Bay.B hours from Cordova…and there is no one here. Once again, we are alone at anchor. To make it even extra special, we saw a 4th grizzly before turning in  for the night.

Bears and mountain goat territory in Sheep Bay

St. Mathews Bay to Comfort Cove

It was foggy in the morning, and we only had a short ways to go today, so we weren't in any hurry. We saw a seaplane cruising the valley along the bay. And we saw another eagle, doing the breast stroke with his salmon catch. That’s two on this trip!

Fog trying to lift in St. Mathews Bay

We had passed Comfort Cove on our way to Beartrap earlier in the trip, and decided we should check it out as our friends on Telita's recommended it. Port Gravina had whitecaps and a bit of fetch from the Hinchinbrook Entrance, but once inside the narrow entrance, it was nice. The breeze kept the bugs down, but the tides weren’t great for exploring, so we just chilled and enjoyed the view.

Comfort Cove provides a nice calm anchorage

Long Bay to St. Mathews Bay

 Happy July! Once again, we were alone in our anchorage last night. It has been a while since we shared an anchorage with a pleasure boat.

The weather is looking up today, we can see more of Long Bay, which we have decided is “nice” but not a major “wow” compared to some of the other places we’ve been on this trip. So we hoisted the anchor, which was very muddy with shale, and headed off for a long trip to St. Matthews Bay.

Long Bay, looking down the valley

It wasn’t hard for Bob to dodge the icebergs, and he gave the boat to me as we entered the Valdez Traffic Zone. Not much was going on traffic-wise, either visually or on AIS. The views today were beautiful in all quadrants.

The very famous spot where the Exxon Valdez ran agound

Approaching St. Matthews Bay, we went through several rafts of otters, though none wanted to pose. It’s really pretty as you wind your way into the head of the bay to anchor. We worked our way in, and found just the right spot. Shortly after dropping the hook, we went out for a dinghy ride and scared a bunch of eagles that were fishing at the bay’s’ head. There were probably 5-6 altogther.

Fun in the water, otter frolics

We then headed back towards the mouth to the little island, and circumnavigated (just!) as the tide wasn’t too low. We saw .9’ at the lowest point – glad to be in the dinghy!

The famous "porpoise cam" rig

We had a very peaceful night, alone again. This is a majestic place with gorgeous mountains and a valley at the head.

Warmer water seems to bring out the jellies

OceanFlyer in St. Mathews Bay