Pinkerton Islands

Kevin helped us with a ride back from the Tofino Airport after we returned our rental car in the morning. Our destination today is the Pinkerton Islands. This area is north of the Broken Group. Specifically we like a small one-boat anchorage that is behind some barrier rocks and bordered by shallow flats.

We have always enjoyed this anchorage. The drying rocks give protection from the fetch on most tides, and we have a great view to the south. We’re also hoping that we can get a nice breeze into the anchorage so we can mitigate the heat as the temperature is forecast to approach 80F this afternoon.

Karen has been monitoring on Marine Traffic a boat the past few days that was anchored in “our spot” but, as luck would have it, they had moved on before we arrived.

Back in our spot, we enjoyed being the only boat in sight. There were two boats anchored around the corner in the main passage, but we only knew they were there from AIS.  In addition to the views to the south, there is a large drying flat to the north where we have seen bears and wolves in the past. Like clockwork, we had a bear sighting at a 5-foot low tide.

our favorite nook in the pinkerton islands

one of the local bears walks through “ankle” deep mud as he makes his rounds

cozy home in our pinkerton islands anchorage

Overview of the Pinkerton Island Islands

Karen decided that we were going to go past Equis Beach to Julia Passage, about a 5-mile trip one-way.

Julia Passage was a delight. After working our way through a horde of sport fishing boats at Howard Point, we entered this long no-wake passage that is home to 42 float homes. Each one was detached from the others, on both sides of the pass. No two were alike. These float homes were well kept and ranged from cozy to rather grand. We went all the way to the end of the passage and really enjoyed this small touch of “wilderness civilization”. Everyone we saw — there were some people in residence — smiled and waved.

just a few of the 42 float homes in Julia Passage

On the way back, again weaving through the fishing boats, we saw several salmon caught. Karen clapped for one successful fisherman, and he bowed in return.

floathouse in the western nook can just been seen in the center of this photo

our view as the sun rises in the Pinkerton islands

Joe’s Bay

With the forecast for a few days of strong winds, we decided to make the run from Kennedy Cove to the Ucluelet area today. Conditions were as forecast with light winds and 3-4 foot gentle ocean swells. We enjoyed a pleasant trip south with not much to remark on except for the unexpected crab pots in the ocean at the 150-foot depth line.

As I always say, you know when you’re near Ucluelet when the horizon fills with small boats bobbing in the swells as they troll for salmon. Today was no different. We lost count on how many we passed, dodged, and otherwise avoided. Throw in a couple of kayakers fishing in 4-foot swells and you have a busy approach to the entrance of Carolina Chanel. In reduced visibility, my preferred entrance is to pass by Carolina Channel and enter the area using Loudoun Chanel. You will not find the flotillas of small fishing boats, most without AIS or radar, which makes this 2-mile addition to your journey much safer.

We’ll pass Ucluelet for now and return later for some light provisioning and a planned meal at Pluvios restaurant.

Therefore, we set our destination for Joe’s Bay in the Broken Group. It is a large, if not commodious anchorage, with easy anchoring, good holding, and protection from the winds. Perfect after a 5-hour run.  We dropped the hook in just the right spot, with views out a narrow passage that covered and uncovered depending on the tide.

LOTS OF ROOM IN JOE’S BAY

As we dropped the hook, we noticed a large motoryacht anchored in a corner with a ton of people on it. Turns out this is the Raincoast Maiden, a 53’ day-tour boat that offers a trek through the Broken Group from Ucluelet. They were having a lunch stop and were rather boisterous. Luckily, they soon left, talking on the loudspeaker as they went. We ran into them several times during our stay in this area.

The bay wasn’t particularly crowded, with everyone well-behaved in terms of anchoring space. Once again, we were surrounded by Sailboats.

We went on dinghy explorations just to snoop around. We exited the narrow passage ahead of our anchor spot, tooled around, scoped out the kayaker beaches and nosed the dinghy up to several pocket beaches so Karen could get off, walk a bit and look for shell treasures.

There were lots of kayakers in the area, as Joe’s has good campsites. We noticed the Clayoquot Whaler come into the anchorage twice a day to pick up or offload kayakers. The captain was a great boat handler and was fun to watch. On one visit, he was dawdling and drifting near OceanFlyer while waiting for a kayaking group to get to the pick-up beach and prepare for loading. Karen waved and the next thing we know, he is rafting to us and gifting us with a lovely salmon. We traded some whiskey in return and everyone was happy.

ANOTHER PICK-UP FOR THE BUSY Clayoquot Whaler

MOTHER NATURE DOES NOT DISAPOINT

We also had some lovely sunsets in Joe’s ‘Bay. It’s a favorite stop in the area.

Tranquilito Cove

At the end of Tranquil Inlet behind Tofino lays the small one-boat cove known as Tranquilito. The depths on the charts list a generic 10 feet. However, it offers a secure anchorage in soft mud in about 25 feet. There is plenty of depth in the center with room to swing on at least a 3-to-1 scope. A favorite of our friends Lynn and Neal, we decided to give it a try.

As seems to be the norm in this area, these small coves have a much larger feel once inside. We have great views out to the Northwest and the drying river shoal at the head of Tranquil Inlet. Bears have been reported on this “beach”, so we’ll keep a lookout for their low water foraging. There is a dramatic slab of black granite wall on one side of the anchorage that adds to the ambiance.

Tranquilito Cove looking south down Tranquil Inlet

Our plan is to hang out in the forecast rain tomorrow and do boat chores, laundry, cooking, trip planning, blog entries and some radar troubleshooting.

Rain did come the next day as did the M/V Stornoway who unexpectedly stopped by to say hi and take a look at the anchorage.  We once had dinner their house in Port Madison on Bainbridge Island with our friends Greg and Jan from M/V Spellbound. It’s truly a small world.

Tranquilito Cove not for navigation

Freedom Cove

Holmes Inlet Nook

We lucked out today rounding Estavan Point and the Hesquiat Penninsula. Though not as intimidating as Cape Scott or the Brooks Peninsula, this is another place where winds and seas can be challenging. Once again, the Minkus weather dome held and we made the rounding in comfortable conditions. We also saw a sunfish, those are very weird-looking animals for sure.

Not being Hot Springs fans, we are always on the lookout for interesting places to anchor in and around Clayoquot Sound. Our friends on Navigator strongly recommended Holmes Inlet Nook, close to the head of Holmes Inlet off Sydney Inlet. A quick look at the chart reveals a few things. One, it’s a one way trip. The “Nook” is in a narrow offshoot of the main Holmes inlet, and there is no easy way to rejoin Holmes or Sydney inlet without retracing your steps. The second is that the turn into the inlet is more than 90 degrees, so situational awareness is critical.

HOLMES INLET COVE IS A ONE BOAT ANCHORAGE

We had following seas as we went up Sydney inlet and some winds. The seas died down as we entered the narrow offshoot, but the winds continued. As we lined up to make the turn into the entrance, the current was also working against us.  Nevertheless, we entered safely and this one-boat nook (we did not stern tie) became home for the next two days.

On the charts, it looks like this anchorage might feel totally enclosed and confined, but you could see out enough to make it interesting.

CALM AND COZY

On day 2, we headed off in the dinghy to explore. First, we went up to the head of Holmes Inlet to Pretty Girl Cove.  It was fairly attractive and a viable alternative to Holmes Nook, but the winds and fetch that day and the quickly shoaling depths would have made anchoring uncomfortable.

LOOKING OUT TO THE CHANNEL FROM INSIDE HOLMES INLET NOOK

THE VIEW FROM THE INET BACK INTO THE SMALL NOOK

We then decided to head south to Bottleneck Bay, a popular anchorage that we visited in 2012. The entry is narrow and interesting, and then it opens up to a large basin with multiple options for anchoring. We were totally shocked to find this bay empty. This has been a trend for us on this trip – we seem to be between “waves” of boaters who are heading south down the outside.

Thanks to the crew of M/V Navigator for the tip on this anchorage. We really enjoyed it.