Bull Harbour

We planned our departure from Port McNeill around 9:50 am to catch some portion of the favorable current heading our way. The morning was dead calm with flat seas and though the wind picked up some, it was a great 5-hour ride. There was not a lot of boat traffic, other than some smaller fishing boats in and around Port Hardy. We saw some porpoises along the way, but they were busy and did not come over to swim in our bow wake.

Just north of Port McNeill there is a massive gravel quarry. The only evidence of it from the seaward side is the impressive conveyor belt used to load barges.

pulteney point lighthouse

idyllic weather ahead

idyllic weather behind. We’re engulfed in the most pleasent of conditions.

Our destination, Bull Harbour, is the classic last stop before rounding Cape Scott. We’ve launched our West Coast of Vancouver Island Trips from here before (2012, 2018).

Bull Harbour is a nice functional anchorage – very well protected. There is a main dock in the bay run by the local tribe. There are no additional services such as water or power offered for the fee they collect. There is a big sign at the top of the ramp that effectively says, no access. This is echoed on their website.

Restricted access to First Nations land appears to be a trend. In the case of Bull Harbour, it’s a shame, as the walk to and view from Roller Beach is fun and worthwhile. The website alludes to the tribe working on a plan to reopen visitor access, which would be very welcome.

In Goletas Channel, we were behind a tug called the Island Yarder. Turns out he was headed into Bull Harbour about the same time as we were. There is a large fish farm at the entrance, and that is where he headed to deliver his load.

We were the 3rd boat in the anchorage, joining S/V Viking Spirit and S/V Cookie Cutter. Three more boats joined us later that afternoon. In total, there were 2 power boats and 4 sailboats, with 2 tied to the main dock and one anchored in near the free-floating dock nearer the harbour entry which was used by a boat from the fish farm to overnight.

Bull Harbour MAin Dock. False channel seen on the right.

floating dock in the entrance channel to bull harbour

The weather forecast is very good for tomorrow at the Cape. We’ll keep monitoring the forecasts and buoy reports as our departure time approaches.

Port McNeill

Port McNeill is a favorite stop for boaters as they make their way North or on their return trip. North Island Marina is friendly and full service. You can even fuel your boat at your slip with a system of very long hoses. You’ll berth among a range of boats - mega yachts to small fishing boats. There is something for everyone. This marina is extremely popular so be sure to make reservations.

pot mcneill, north island marina in the foreground

North Island Marina is a busy place. Reservations recommended

fueling at your berth is a unique feature of north island marina

The IGA grocery store, a couple of restaurants and a laundromat are all withing walking distance, not to mention the Shop Rite Home Store that has all manner of hardware and marine items.

found oil for my dinghy here

It is not a town for foodies but establishments such as Gus’s Pub, where we enjoyed fish and chips for lunch, have been around since our first visit more than a decade ago. The brew pub trend has also made it to Port McNeil in the form of the newer arrival — The Devil’s Brewing Company — where the beer was very good, the pizza was just fine, the African Peanut soup was great — and the kitchen was very slow. They are not alone in staffing issues. We spent an hour and a half at Gus’s for food that came from a frier. The grocery store posted a sign saying they are now closing at 7pm because they are short-staffed. This seems to be pervasive since we left Sidney.

gus’ pub

Devils’ Bath Brewing

going to “town” can have its rewards

Our visit is planned for two days. Day 1 was mostly chores, with the second day’s highlight being a short ferry ride so we could visit Sointula.

The BC Ferries are the life blood of the island communities in British Columbia. The equipment is well maintained, and the crew members are more than polite. The ride to Sointula from Port McNeill is only 25 minutes, so we planned a half-day trip as it has been many, many years since we visited.

When I approached the ticket window and said that I wanted two tickets to Sointula, the kind person queried us be to be certain we understood that there is nothing much to see or do in Sointula if traveling by foot. “If you just want to go over and have a coffee, that’s fine, but it really is a place to take your car and drive all-round the island,” she cautioned. We acknowledged her advice and explained that we were familiar, and we would be OK.

one of the locals has a warm welcome for you as you walk off the ferry.

Sointula is pleasantly not a tourist destination. We enjoyed visiting the cultural center of the island, the Co-Op, for a couple of provisioning items and the History Museum that makes up for its petite scale with the generous enthusiasm of the volunteers who are eager to inform. (Key highlight: the gorgeous blue/green rugs made from old fishing nets).

the hub of Sointula, A.K.A THe Co-OP

check out the newborn registry at the Co-op

local custom of honoring the high school graduates

sointula museum is full of local history, not to be missed

the story behind the settlement of sointula is facinating

Words of wisdom from Sointula

However, there was a special treat in store for us. The Malcolm Island Food Company is amazing. It just opened this year. The couple who run it came to the island a few years ago with a restaurant background. They first worked at Coho Joe’s for two years, then transitioned into making food to-go for their fellow islanders and have now opened a stand-alone shop in a beautifully converted garage. They enticed us in for their baked goods, but also specialize in prepared frozen meals. We stocked up on sweet and savory items for breakfast including a killer quiche and a frozen Shepards pie for dinner that night.

a must visit when in Sointula

bicycle art can be found around Sointula

a walk to the south and you’ll find a nice beach

our ride back to port mcneill arrives at Sointula

you got to love Sointula

The last new-to-us treat in Port McNeill was the food truck, Lata’s Kitchen, located in an unused portion of the “up-the-hill” Shop Rite parking lot. The location has a commanding view of the harbour. The “picnic benches” are the nicest, most substantial I have ever seen. I’m not much for picnic tables, but these are so comfortable. I enjoyed the fish & chips and Karen had a gourmet brie and fig chicken sandwich. Yummy.

lata’s Kitchen

While we sat there, a steady stream of residents came in their cars and picked up takeout. When you see the locals support an establishment, you have hope it will be there the next time you visit.

the view from lata’s kitchen back down to the port mcneill harbour

I know this sounds like a restaurant tour of Port McNeill, but we do make it a point to eat off the boat when we can, because it will be many weeks before that opportunity presents itself again.

The last location to put on your list when you visit Port McNeil is Mugz 2.0. It is a reincarnation of Mugz and is a small coffee shop with breakfast and lunch items. I picked up a couple of very large apple caramel scones for the ferry ride to Sointula. Delicious, and they held us until dinner time!

a little port mcneill “TV” as this barge beached and unloaded heavy equipment

Hopefully our fun time in Port McNeill has topped off our energy stores to sustain us for the 5-hour run to Bull Harbour and the following 6-hour day around Cape Scott to North Harbour in Quatsino Sound.

port mcneill sunset

The Pearse Islands

Our plan for today was to go to Pearl Pass as a positioning stop before traveling to Port McNeill tomorrow. We decided to go “the long way” out into Johnstone Strait, hoping to see whales.

Our route took us down Baronet Passage until it intersects Johnstone Strait. A quick look around Johnstone and listening to the whale watching boats – no joy. Then back north through Blackney Passage along Hanson Island, past the Plumper Islands through Weynton Passage and finally on to our new destination, the Pearse Islands.

This is historically a good area to spot humpbacks and as the name Blackfish Sound implies, Orca. We were monitoring three VHF channels, 16, 7 and 10. The latter two are used by the whale watching boats in the area and can give you a good idea as to what the activity, if any activity, you might find. Unfortunately, the report was that the Orca had gone back into Robson Bight and therefore we would not be seeing any of them today.

We had just about given up when passing the last of the Plumper Islands and rounding the corner between them and Stubbs Island I caught what I thought was a log just off our starboard forward quarter, not two boat lengths away. The log quickly resolved itself to be a fin of a humpback about to cross our bow.

Always enjoy seeing a humpback whale

Engines quickly into reverse and as we came to a dead stop the humpback passed just in front of us. Seemingly unaware of our presence. We know he knows we are here but he has no interest in us. I’m glad we were only at a slow cruise speed, as it allowed us to stop quickly. The mammal was fishing a circular pattern in the relatively shallow shelves off the Plumper Islands.

After watching a couple of shallow dives, and letting the humpback get a safe distance away, we resumed our course for the Pearse Islands.

This might be our third visit to the Pearse Islands, which are part of the Cormorant Channel Marine Park. We anchor in the center of the main channel in 20 feet of water abeam a break in the islands to the north. The current runs strongly, and your boat tugs on your anchor to the East and then to the West. I useed a generous 5 to 1 scope to help the anchor set in the rocky bottom that is covered in kelp.

our anchor spot with a view in the Pearse Islands

What that anchor spot looks like on the Navionics chart

Looking out to Cormorant Channel

I like to leave time to experience the current change to ensure the anchor holds in both directions. We did end up resetting once. When we weighed anchor, it took time to offload the kelp ball on the anchor.

A note. The channel is a favorite pass through for small local boats. Having said that, they are almost all very courteous and slow down as they pass. Either that, or we are a curiosity that requires closer inspection.

Sunset in the Pearse Islands

Lagoon Cove

We departed Boughey Bay for one of our favorite destinations, Lagoon Cove. It’s not far, just up Chatham Channel and through the Blow Hole. The timing of the Chatham Channel currents is such that we got underway very early and arrived at Lagoon Cove by 8:30am.

After getting skunked last August, we made reservations for moorage in advance. But could they take us this early?

We jumped on the radio to say that we’d anchor out for a few hours if they needed time to clear a space. Luckily for us, there was room and Dan welcomed us to the dock and helped with lines. It’s such a friendly place.

Lagoon cove docks. Overflow dock, with the new crew quaRters under construction can be seen near the small cove.

A two-night stay is in the offing. Lagoon Cove is famous for the daily happy hour potluck where they provide freshly caught prawns and fellow boaters provide the rest. We find that we often can make a dinner meal of the generous concoctions set out by our cruising dock mates. It’s also really popular, and the marina was totally full the first night we were there. Business is booming. The fuel dock was very busy and they are building marina crew accommodations on the overflow dock.

Dan laying out the ground rules for happy hour, Prawns for everyone!

World famous LAgoon Cove shed. Many a crew have left their burgee.

The shop at the other end of the shed. This was once a very active maintenance facility with the ways to haul out boats along side.

The idea of freshly caught prawns is extremely attractive. We tried here last August, and nearly lost our pot to an obstruction on the bottom. This year, surely, we’ll be luckier. The word is that the prawns are back after the commercial fishery plunder.

Sadly, three soaks in three different locations over two days resulted in a total of 5 prawns. Nice-sized, but not worth the effort. And a fish farm is now located right over one of the best prawning sites! Oh well, maybe later in the trip.

A unique offering by our hosts Dan and Kelley is that you can purchase a ten-dollar Shore Package if the docks are full, and you anchor out. We did this last year — you can enjoy happy hour at the marina as well as access to the land and the hiking trails.  When the docks are full, we find that a great deal.

We met some great people on M/V Tortoise.  She is a very well kept single-engine Grand Banks 36 out of Sidney, and new to the owners. We had fun at happy hour with Helen and Jeff!

Low tide provides opportunity to clean the bottom and service the outboard. Decomissioned ways can be seen to the left of the ramp.

On the second evening we saw Dan jump in his boat and make his way toward Chatham Channel at full speed. Apparently, there was a mayday for a sinking boat and Lagoon Cove was the closest source of assistance.  We were alerted to the situation as a helicopter flew low over the Cove and landed by the main house. While we don’t know all the details, it seems as if a group of teenagers had a serious issue and had the presence of mind to get their life jackets on and into a dinghy. The boat sank, but the kids were all fine though shaken for sure. Kudos to Dan and those on the dock who helped when the kids arrived.

We enjoyed our stay at Lagoon Cove very much and look forward to next year!

lagoon cove sunset

Boughey Bay

Today our goal is to position ourselves near Lagoon Cove so we can make slack in Chatham Channel tomorrow morning.

The forecast for Johnstone Strait has been anything but accurate. While the forecast is for light winds, the buoy reports during the day report 30 knot winds. In fact, yesterday one large Ocean Alexander returned to Blind Channel after they got beat up on the Strait and decided to turn around.

Today’s forecast is for very light winds, but we expect something other than that, and decided to go the “back way” to stay off the Strait as long as possible. We set our alarms for an early start to make our passage first through Greens Point rapids and then Whirlpool Rapids with an hour of high slack. Both of the rapids are wide and at high tide you experience swirls and eddies but no standing waves. That allows for a wide tide window to transit.

We repeatly crossed paths with these vessels servicing the fish farms

As we turned off Johnstone Strait, one boat called us to ask if we were going through Chatham Channel and if they could follow us, as it was their first time.  We told him we were off to Boughey instead. We saw the boat on the docks at Lagoon Cove the next day, so his first transit was clearly successful!

We shared Boughey Bay with one other boat and had a peaceful evening.

Boughey Bay Sunset

Same view the Next moring in Boughey Bay