Nanaimo to Pirate's Cove

Nanaimo to Pirate’s Cove: 11.9NM

Bob sacked in on Sunday and didn’t get moving til around 9am. Can’t say that I blame him!

 Our agenda for the day was to check out the large chandlery in Nanaimo and then to scout out Newcastle Marine Park directly across from Nanaimo before heading south. It was a worthwhile decision to spend this extra time in Nanaimo. Usually we are simply heading north or south and had not taken the time to explore the area.

 The Chandlery was heaven for Bob, well stocked with all things marine and a wonderful place to find whatever is needed. What was needed for us was “head deodorizer”, the important chemicals you put into the holding tanks to avoid the nauseous sewage gasses that can arise when the toilets are flushed. What a difference that stuff makes to happy boat living!

 We went to lunch on the dock right near our boat, at a place called Penny’s Palapas. We had smelled the Mexican food from there all afternoon on Saturday, and finally caved in, expecting very little. It’s an open-air café on the dock, open sunrise to dusk, with a tiny kitchen. You order up at the “kitchen” and wait for the food to be delivered. How good could it be?

 It was superb. I had halibut tacos that were out of this world, and Bob had a chicken burrito that had him sighing with pleasure.

 Well fortified, I convinced Captain Bob to lower the dinghy so that we could go explore Newcastle Island Marine Park. This is a 750-acre marine park that we had heard was lovely. It was just a quick dinghy ride from Nanaimo across the harbor to the park.

Karen says "Hi" to the concierge at Newcastle Park.

Needless to say, Newcastle lived up to its billing. There were wonderful campsites and picnic sites, and well maintained paths throughout the island. We “hiked” the shoreline trail that kept us in view of the water and views out across the Strait of Georgia. It was sunny and warm, and I had on my shorts for the first time all season.

Karen hunting for the perfect shell at Newcastle.

 We spent a pleasant 90 minutes or so walking around this island. While we didn’t see any, the island is also famous for champagne colored raccoons. We saw a picture of them and they are really cool looking.

 

Loooking back to Nanaimo from Newcastle Park.

The term "beach" in B.C. most often refers to solid granite.

Many of the granite "beaches" are lovely.

Karen points to the last visable sign of a sailboat that tried to take a shortcut into Nanaimo.

 Back across the bay and time to depart for the south, catching the slack tide at Dodd Narrows again.

 As we depart the harbor of Nanaimo, we spotted a Dockwise yacht transport vessel preparing to load its cargo. Yachts that is.

Trawler waits its turn to "sail" into the Dockwise transport ship.

 The ship will flood its tanks, lowering itself about 16 feet. Then the "cargo" can float in.

Come on in, the water's fine!

Once there, a cradle is placed under each vessel and the Dockwise ship pumps out its ballast tanks lifting the cargo out of the water, safe and secure for a long passage to another continent. It saves a long and possibly dangerous ocean passage for the smaller boats and is a popular way to reposition your boat for another season.

Now, on to Dodd Narrows. It amazes us that so few boats take the time to announce their intentions at this narrow dogleg passage. It serves them all right if they meet a large boat head on in there.

 We, of course, followed proper protocol and soon were headed to Pirate’s Cove Marine Park on DeCourcy Island. We had planned to stop there on the way north, but the flood from the water tanks led us to overnight in Ganges instead. So we wanted to check this place out.

 It has a tricky reef-strewn entrance that, while well marked, gets your attention. You have to follow a range into the cove, and then hang a hard left to stay between two marks to avoid other shoals.

Narrow entrance into Pirate’s Cove.

A good look at the rocks that are marked by the channel buoys and why you must be careful and follow the course defined by the published entrance.

 We did that without a problem, but the cove was much smaller than we thought and it was crowded. We had to drop anchor before our stern tie equipment was ready, and we suffered for it. I think we entertained the entire cove with our shenanigans. I lost the will to explore and simply hung out in the boat for the evening. Bob made killer food, salmon marinated in honey and balsamic and sherry and Dijon…it was wonderful. A good night after all!

Grace Harbour to Nanaimo

Grace Harbor to Nanaimo: 76.9NM 

Another day in paradise.  Listened to the marine forecast and it was an all systems go for our trip back toward Pender Harbor in preparation for our crossing the Strait of Georgia. The previous two days of gale force winds had blown out, and our transit was in very very calm water. The way I like it best.  

We saw tons of seals along the way, eyeing us disdainfully. They’re pretty cute. A few were frolicking and kicking up waves. Mostly the passage was long, but we decided to keep going and get across the strait to Nanaimo and spend the night. That way, weather became pretty much a non-issue for the rest of our trip.  

While I was making grilled ham and cheese sandwiches, Bob saw this huge blue-hulled ship with a helicopter on the stern being circled by a float plane at low altitude. Apparently, someone was deployed in the boat’s dinghy, taking photos of the ship and the plane…wow!  

We came into Nanaimo and were assigned a great slip near the wharfinger’s office (called a harbor master in the U.S.) and the laundry. Did some laundry and walked the docks, looking at boats. Tried to convince Bob to make salmon, but instead ended up at the Wesley Street bistro, which was another great culinary adventure. We explored Nanaimo’s Old City while walking to the restaurant, and have decided to do some more exploring tomorrow before departing to the south.

Melanie Cove to Grace Harbor

Melanie Cove to Grace Harbor: 12NM

It was still a bit windy in the morning, so we decided to forego the kayaking and try the dinghy instead. I wanted to check out nearby Laura Cove for future visits, as it is highly recommended. So Bob took the dinghy and got it up on a plane, so that it wasn’t bouncing too badly.

Navigator Karen, checking another spot "around the bend".

We zipped around in Prideaux Haven and then over to Laura Cove. Laura Cove is nice, but I think Melanie Cove is nicer, so we filed that information away and headed back to the boat.

Today was going to be leisurely, with a visit to private Mink Island to see if the small anchorage there was appealing before heading over to Grace Harbor to anchor for the night. It was mostly calm by now, so the motoring was uneventful and smooth. Mink Island is a cute little island that has private docks and moorings. Lots of signs announcing that not only are fires prohibited, but so are dogs and other non-residents. Not a bad place to stop for lunch, but probably not an overnight we’d be interested in.

As we headed for Grace Harbor, Bob mentioned that he couldn’t believe it was supposed to be another gale force warning day on the Strait of Georgia, as it was so calm where we were. Well, as we approached the turnoff for Malaspina Inlet, the white caps started to appear and the wind began to blow. We were happy to make the turn into the inlet, where it was lumpy but not annoyingly so.

Grace Harbor is a well protected harbor that had lots of boats in it, though it wasn’t crowded. We had lunch and decided to kayak over to the landing at the marine park. We took a nice hike to a freshwater lake, running into folks headed that way with towels and soap. If you don’t have a way to store enough water on your boat for freshwater showers, it’s not a bad way to stay clean. The lake was really peaceful and had a nice large ledge about a foot under water, a great place to sit and lather up (with biodegradable environmentally ok soap, of course)!

We had to get back to the boat for our next adventure, which was to dinghy 4 miles down Malaspina Strait to the Laughing Oyster restaurant for dinner. I had heard of this restaurant for several years, and decided it was time to visit. We had heard that they had some space for visiting boats, but we thought we’d like Grace Harbour better, so decided to make the trek in the dinghy instead. We scheduled an early dinner so that we could dinghy home in the waning daylight. Bob had his portable GPS and had plotted in our course, so that going and coming back would be relatively carefree.

The ride started out smooth, but quickly became very bumpy and lumpy. In the bow and up on the plane, I was getting hammered. Bob decided to slow down, and that’s when we managed to get the dinghy rope entangled in the prop. Luckily, it was just a tiny bit, he was able to work it free, and we continued on our way. Still, bouncing about in the inlet with wave and wind action and no handheld VHF radio, you quickly realize that if this had been a serious problem, boats passing by were few and far between. Note to self: get that portable VHF radio for the next trip.

When we got to the docks at Okeover Landing, where the restaurant was located, the floating docks were surging up and down in the waves and wind. The docks were completely full of small runabouts and fishing craft, and we had to work hard to find a place for our dinghy. All the boats were rubbing together as they surged up and down, and we were extremely glad that we hadn’t brought Best of Times over to this landing.

The "docks" at the Laughing Oyster. Now I know why the mollusk is so jovial.

So we get ashore….and there is absolutely no signage for this restaurant. We decide to walk up the hill and see a place that might be the restaurant…and it was! From the outside, you don’t expect much, but inside, you can tell it’s going to be good. The food was absolutely fantastic, as were the views from the restaurant deck. We had a great meal, then prepared to dinghy home. I held that darned dinghy line in my hand the whole way home to avoid an encore. It was less bumpy going home as the wind and waves had died down some.

The million-dollar views from the Laughing Oyster. That last mountain peak is about 90 miles away.

As we entered the harbor, we detoured around a large and lovely Royal Passagemaker anchored alone in a secluded spot before we headed for the boat. We were just in time to get some lovely pictures of the pink sky at sunset. Another great day in paradise.

Sunset in Grace Harbor. "Red sky at night, sailor's delight."

Roscoe Bay to Refuge Cove, Refuge Cove to Melanie Cove

Awoke to another great day in Roscoe Bay. Got out the kayak and tooled around, checking out the drying shoal and the head of the bay and all the boats along the way.

Best of Times in Rosco Bay

Best of Times as viewed from the kayak

During our travels we noticed a unique from of art. Small rocks piled up on other rocks at or near the shore. We thought they might be there to indicate unmarked hazards.

Roscoe Bay as more than its share of “rock art”

Perhaps they simply marked that a person has passed this way. Most are simple structures, comprised of a few rocks balanced to stand the test of time, but without meaning we could decifer.

However, one composiition did catch our eye.

A creative hand, or an enlarged self image?

We decided to head out to Refuge Cove to reprovision a bit before heading over to Melanie Cove in Prideaux Haven for the night.

Refuge Cove was hopping. As we left Roscoe Bay, it was rather windy and there were some waves and white caps. When we got to the docks, there wasn’t a lot of room, but Bob decided to wedge the boat into a spot that meant that the prevailing wind was going to try and blow us off the dock, not onto it. Not only did he do a great job of docking, but as I tossed the stern line to the nice fellow on the dock, it turned out to be the guy from Coyote Blue, recipient of our salmon the day before!

He told us that it was supposed to really blow hard that night and that gale force winds were forecast for both Johnstone Strait and the Strait of Georgia. Hmm. We went to provision, found great stuff, and while our friends on Coyote Blue decided to stay at the dock for the evening, we headed over to Melanie Cove as originally planned.

The store at refuge cove

Bob said that MC would be sheltered from the winds. To my eye, it looked as if, while sheltered, the winds would still whip down the cove. Wonder who was right?

There were lots of boats in Prideaux Haven and Melanie Cove, the two quintessential anchorages in Desolation Sound. Still, there was more than enough room for us and we set the anchor well in case the wind picked up.

I wanted to go kayaking, but Bob wanted to chill out first. By the time we climbed into the kayak, it was blowing pretty good. Our “upwind” paddle was painfully hard, and it started to rock and roll a bit as we left Melanie Cove for Prideaux Haven. We cut our kayak short and headed back for the boat. Well, going downwind was really fun. We were smoking along, doing warp speed without moving our paddles at all. In fact, we held the paddles out as if they were mini-sails and grinned all the way back to the boat.

Oh yes…it blew hard that night! And rained sometime overnight as well!

Roscoe Bay to Melanie Cove

Roscoe Bay to Refuge Cove: 4.3NM

Refuge Cove to Melanie Cove: 8.6NM

Awoke to another great day in Roscoe Bay. Got out the kayak and tooled around, checking out the drying shoal and the head of the bay and all the boats along the way.

Best of Times in Roscoe Bay.  

Best of Times as viewed from the Kayak.

During our travels we noticed a unique from of art. Small rocks piled up on other rocks at or near the shore. We thought they might be there to indicate unmarked hazards.

Roscoe has more than its share of "rock art"  

Perhaps they simply marked that a person has passed this way. Most are simple structures, comprised of a few rocks balanced to stand the test of time, but without meaning we could decipher.

However, one composition did catch our eye.

A creative hand, or an enlarged self-image?

 We decided to head out to Refuge Cove to reprovision a bit before heading over to Melanie Cove in Prideaux Haven for the night.

Refuge Cove was hopping. As we left Roscoe Bay, it was rather windy and there were some waves and white caps. When we got to the docks, there wasn’t a lot of room, but Bob decided to wedge the boat into a spot that meant that the prevailing wind was going to try and blow us off the dock, not onto it. Not only did he do a great job of docking, but also, as I tossed the stern line to the nice fellow on the dock, it turned out to be the guy from Coyote Blue, recipient of our salmon the day before!

 He told us that it was supposed to really blow hard that night and that gale force winds were forecast for both Johnstone Strait and the Strait of Georgia. Hmm. We went to provision, found great stuff, and while our friends on Coyote Blue decided to stay at the dock for the evening, we headed over to Melanie Cove as originally planned.

The store at Refuge Cove.

 Bob said that MC would be sheltered from the winds. To my eye, it looked as if, while sheltered, the winds would still whip down the cove. Wonder who was right?

There were lots of boats in Prideaux Haven and Melanie Cove, the two quintessential anchorages in Desolation Sound. Still, there was more than enough room for us and we set the anchor well in case the wind picked up.

 I wanted to go kayaking, but Bob wanted to chill out first. By the time we climbed into the kayak, it was blowing pretty good. Our “upwind” paddle was painfully hard, and it started to rock and roll a bit as we left Melanie Cove for Prideaux Haven. We cut our kayak short and headed back for the boat. Well, going downwind was really fun. We were smoking along, doing warp speed without moving our paddles at all. In fact, we held the paddles out as if they were mini-sails and grinned all the way back to the boat.

Oh yes…it blew hard that night! And rained sometime overnight as well!